The Mount Lougheed Traverse

Trip Date: July 23, 2016 with Ruchel Stevens
Trip time: 9 hours
Distance: 20 kms
Elevation Gain: 2,000m
Route: Nugara
Difficulty: Climbers scramble for one short section below the summit of Peak 2. There are 2-3 short difficult sections and the rest is moderate/easy.

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Trip Report:

Visually stunning, the Lougheed Traverse is a trip you’ll never forget. Getting to the summit of Peak 1 is a fairly straightforward affair, we encountered only 1 difficult scrambling move, the majority of the ascent was steep hiking and the bulk of the 400 or so meters of scrambling was moderate. The ridge between peak 1 and 2 looks insane but is actually quite easy to cross. Getting to the summit of Peak 2 is where those with difficult scrambling practice will enjoy giddy thrills route finding up the cliff bands and then climbing a 7-10m crux with about 1000 vertical meters of exposure below. Apparently there is an ‘easier’ loose and steep gully to the right of the crux, but we were not tempted over there in the least as a suicidal looking scree slope is between it and the ridge, you’re far better off risking the climbing moves than venturing out on that in my opinion. After Peak 2 its a short trudge up to Peak 3. From Peak 3 we made the terrible mistake of descending to the east via the ridge/col with Wind Mountain. This is a miserable descent (endless loose rubble field) and a poor way to finish a great day. Do yourself a favor and descend between peaks 2 and 3 instead where the footing is much better.

@ruchely making her way to Mount Lougheed Peak 1 summit (taken July 23, 2016)

A photo posted by Jamie Junker (@peakfever) on

Running down Mount Lougheed Peak 1 en route to Peak 2

A photo posted by Jamie Junker (@peakfever) on